Choosing a softly, softly approach to opening the doors last week at The Duke Pub & Restaurant, was probably a good idea, as this charming, cosy neighbourhood hang out is going to be all kinds of popular.

We arrived around 6pm on Saturday and the place was already buzzing with drinkers and diners. We’re loving the decor which could only be described as stepping into a warm Farrow and Ball hug of masculine muted shades to complement the design layout.

It’s been thoughtfully considered to provide an easily accessible bar area, a centre counter top lined with stylish bar stools for meeting, drinking, sharing of plates and maybe the odd bit of work with a laptop. Surrounded by generously spaced dining tables and a rather lovely semi private dining space that tucks you away but also makes you still feel part of the vibrant atmosphere.

Before diving into an expertly made Sea & Smoke Old Fashioned we took a sneak peek into the kitchen which champions the purity of cooking over fire. In a small, compact kitchen with just an open fire pit & grill, an oven and a fryer we find head chef Adam Hague passionately preparing the Delica Pumpkin dish. His enthusiasm for the menu, ingredients and his team is palpable as he says, “it’s all about simplicity; clean flavours that shout for themselves. Each dish should deliver taste, acidity and texture, that’s my mantra”.

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Delica Pumpkin | Kale | Hazelnut | Yoghurt

The restaurant is busy as guests continue to pour in, yet the kitchen maintains a steady stream of plates. This is the charm of a small plates menu, no orders piling up and waiting for courses to be delivered, eaten, and cleared away. The atmosphere is incredibly relaxed and chilled. Order what you like, and if you fancy something else, just place another order—the kitchen is there to serve the room whenever it’s needed.

What stands out is the attention to detail of the layers of flavours and textures in each dish especially the ‘From the Garden’ dishes. We’re huge advocates of treating any veggie dish with the same passion as any other meat or fish dish and that has been accomplished with aplomb at The Duke.

The vegetable dishes are as they should be, all about the flavour and to be enjoyed as much as any other dish on the menu – veggies are not an after thought here. The hispi cabbage, poached and finished off on the grill over embers delivers delicate smoky flavours complemented by the creamy, zingy dressing and crispy chorizo. Yup, texture, texture, texture.

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Hispi | Chorizo | Garlic | Onion
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Iberico Pig Pie | Gruyere | Pineapple

Snacks first though and the Iberico Pig Pie with gruyere and pineapple is a proper pub grub with flair and the Lobster with Nori and Gochujang were perfect little powerhouse morsels popping with flavour with a nice little touch of heat. You can also choose from mouth-watering bites such as King Prawn, Teriyaki, Sesame and Yuzu Koshi or Aged Beef Fat Foccacia, Whipped Lardo & Seaweed, err…HELLO!

If you want to know more about how the dishes come, ask a server, as the menu is simplistic with the descriptives, though that does lend itself to intrigue and surprise when your chosen plates are served.

The Raw Deer with Wasabi and Granny Smith was a sure fire hit, as was the Raw Salmon with Leche de Tigre. The fish is lightly cured which sets your mouth singing with freshness, and the Highland Rump Cap is outstanding, perfectly cooked and married with umami rich mushroom and onion. This a menu that you would happily graze through the entirety of.

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Raw Deer | Wasabi | Granny Smith
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Raw Salmon | Leche de Tigre | Onion | Coriander
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Highland Rump Cap | Mushroom | Onion | Watercress

We forgot to mention the cheeky triple cooked chips with chicken curry salt and a curry ketchup. More please!

There is a well thought out and curated cocktail menu, along with excellent rums, gins, whiskies and bourbons, and a great selection of low and no alcohol options.

As promised The Duke is first and foremost a pub where you can meet your friends or chill out with colleagues after work, but with the added luxury of top, flavourful small plate dining to snack, dine and share. It’s a recipe for success and with its unfussy but beautifully presented and delicious to eat dishes, The Duke is a perfect and timely contribution to the Henley food scene.

We highly recommend popping in and checking it out. We’ve got our beady eye on the Potato & Caviar, Young Carrots, Iberico Pork Chop with XO, and oh, the Creedy Carver Duck Lasagne for our next visit.

See you in there!

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